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Culinary Arts - 2010
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Cru Beaujolais: The Mecca of Gamay
words: Bradley Ball, sommelier
Beaujolais has been relegated to the likes of candy corn and marshmallow rabbits—consumed one day a year, on “Beaujolais Nouveau Day,” the third Thursday of November, the official release date for a season’s vintage. The clever marketing that created this holiday has single-handedly saved and destroyed the wine’s reputation. What many are not aware of is that real Beaujolais is some of the most underrated juice being produced in France, the world’s greatest wine country.
A Little Geography and Methodology
Beaujolais is technically in the southernmost portion of Burgundy but often seems to be in a world of its own—they do things a little differently down there. First, their wines are made from the Gamay grape versus the Pinot Noir that is produced in the rest of Burgundy. Second, the use of whole-cluster fermentation (aka carbonic maceration) is widely used, producing a more approachable style of wine when utilized properly.
Wine Styles
Beaujolais is marked by two styles of wine: Beaujolais Nouveau and Cru Beaujolais. The former should simply be shunned while the latter is serious wine that should be explored by the all those with an interest in wine. To put it in cheesy terms, Beaujolais Nouveau is equivalent to your average pre-sliced American cheese, while Cru Beaujolais could be likened to the delicious explosion of Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog goat cheese on your palate.
Beaujolais Nouveau: A Stain on Gamay
The ‘nouveau’ style should be bottled and consumed within one year of the harvest. The wines are typically over-harvested and sold on the cheap in a very quick manner. Years ago, some producers from the struggling region created the Beaujolais Nouveau Day ploy to unload this juice quickly by creating a holiday around its release. This stunt saved them from bankruptcy, but unfortunately stereotyped the region as the home of simple, cheap wines to be drunk only once a year.
Cru Beaujolais: The Mecca of Gamay
Under the proper tutelage, these wines are deep, soulful and complex with the ability to age beautifully, particularly those from one of its ten crus. Unfortunately, there are numerous producers crafting stunning wines who are struggling to sell their wines because of the aforementioned “Nouveau” stereotype of the region. However, this situation works out quite well for the enlightened consumer because the quality-to-price ratio is ridiculously awesome, providing some of the best values on the market!
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Culinary Artist Profile: The Hall Family
words: Amy Stockwell Mercer
Halls Chophouse is a family dream come true. Bill Sr. and Jeanne Hall moved to Charleston and opened the restaurant on upper King Street in March 2009 with their two sons Billy and Tommy. With a long history in the hotel and resort industry, the Halls are thrilled to call Charleston their new home.
“We offer a warm handshake and smile when you walk in the door,” says Tommy who oversees daily operations. The members of this family say they all have their own niche in the restaurant: Dad oversees the whole operation, focusing on the wine and liquor while Mom is the “Chairman” and “the icing on the cake” according to her husband and sons. Oldest son Billy “loves to do marketing and PR.” Mother and sons agree “there is always a HOD-Hall on Duty.” From answering the phones, making reservations, stocking the bar and closing the doors each night, this is a family business.
With exposed brick walls, chocolate and dark green booths, a handmade African mahogany wood bar, tile floor and antique mirrors, the atmosphere is rich and tasteful. A local piano player provides live music six days a week and on the seventh, live gospel music accompanies the Sunday brunch crowd.
“The burgers are a work of art,” says a loyal customer of the late night bar menu burgers. Chef Matthew Neissner, the opening chef at the Sanctuary on Kiawah Island, holds the restaurant together with his great back of the house strength and calm demeanor. His menu includes traditional steakhouse favorites using only USDA Prime, top quality meats, vegetarian options, fish, mashed potatoes, greens and an extensive wine list round out the offerings. Dry aged, slow roasted prime rib is the Hall’s signature dish.
Upstairs, the private “Lamond room” (Jeanne’s maiden name), is decorated with black and white family photos as well as a pair of wooden lacrosse sticks used by her All-American father, a coach at the Naval Academy. The quiet space is perfect for rehearsal dinners and business meetings.
From 50th wedding anniversary celebrations to after work drinks at the bar, Halls provides a little something for everyone. With a great neighborhood location, live music, a varied menu, and good old-fashioned family service, (one customer says you’ll meet all four Hall’s before you finish your first drink), Halls offers an all around top notch dining experience.
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Culinary Artist Profile: Michelle Weaver
words: Amy Stockwell Mercer
Michelle Weaver is inspired by smells. On her days, off the executive chef of the Charleston Grill likes to walk through the farmer’s market and smell the local produce. A native of the South, her mother’s garden was her introduction to the flavors of the region. After graduating from culinary school in Vermont, she worked as the sous chef in Nashville with Chef Bob Waggoner. Michelle remembers the day Bob walked into her office and said he had some good news and bad news. The bad news was that he was leaving Nashville; the good news was that he was going to Charleston and wanted her to come with him.
Michelle knew it was a good opportunity and in 1997, she followed the Waggoners to the Charleston Grill, and has been there ever since. In January 2009, Bob handed the reigns to Michelle who became one of the few women executive chefs in the Lowcountry. “I don’t think about myself as a woman chef, I just think of myself as a chef, that’s my job,” she says. She takes her job seriously, working long hours and constantly changing the menu. “We’re seasonally driven,” she says, “offering a quadrant menu gives us the ability to challenge ourselves with cosmopolitan, southern, pure and lush flavors.”
The Cosmopolitan menu includes “exotic and imaginative dishes inspired by flavors found traveling the globe” such as seafood stew and white truffle fondue. Michelle describes her search to find a certain Indian spice that once located and delivered, smelled so badly no one wanted to take it out of the box. Once it was added to the stove however, the flavor was delicious. “Changing the menu keeps us from getting stagnant,” she says. The Pure menu focuses on simple, not fussy foods and because southern food is where Michelle’s heart lies, it offers “contemporary interpretations of regional favorites.” The Lush menu is inspired by the decadence of French cuisine and includes items such as foie gras and caviar.
After twelve years in Charleston, Michelle has no plans of leaving. “I fell in love with the quality of life in Charleston,” she says. “Every day I am thankful that I get to do what I love to make a living.” With both a seasoned and young, energetic staff, the Charleston Grill is not just a place to eat, it is a dining experience.
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Rosé Wines are in Bloom
Words: Bradley Ball
One of the many reasons I live in Charleston is the warm weather (sometimes a bit too hot). The problem with living in a sultry paradise is that I find it difficult to drink red wine for the majority of the year. I find myself craving red wine but usually within the first couple sips, I realize it is a bad idea as there is nothing thirst-quenching about red wine. As a wine guy, that does not bode well with me.
The solution? Rosés!
Granted, I will be the first one to say that rosé is clearly not red wine, which is great when you are looking for a lighter summer wine that isn’t of the “white” variety. Rosés provide a similar flavor profile to red wine but with slightly toned-down structural components, such as tannin and alcohol, making it perfect combination for us red wine lovers living in hotter climates.
Rosés are not limited to those light, salmon-hued wines of Provence made from thinner, red varietals such as Carignan (although I love this style). With the increase of its popularity, dark, fuller-bodied rosés made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah have become staples of the market and possess the ability to pair well with a serious piece of meat.
Try a few of my favorites.
Lighter style:
Commanderie de Peyrassol, Provence, France
Ameztoi, Txacoli Rosé, Spain
Fuller Style:
Beckman Vineyards, Grenache Rosé, Santa Ynez Valley, California
Mulderbosch, Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, South Africa
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Lunar Delicacies - Four Moons
Words: Olivia Pool
Many of us dream of going to the moon, but alas, always dismiss the pretty thought with a smile and a sigh, tossing it aside as something unattainable. However, there is a more attainable “moon” orbiting not too far from Charleston—in Orangeburg, SC, of all places.
The Four Moons Restaurant, a four star establishment, is a culinary gem, tucked away in the small galaxy of Orangeburg. Nondescript from the exterior, once inside you are transported by the ambiance. A waterfall wall graces the entrance, and upon entering the main dining room, your gaze will go from the stunning contemporary hand-blown glass chandeliers to the dark blue velvet chairs to the etched glass representations of all four phases of the moon to the chain-mail curtained private booths. The glass wine cellar invites you to pop open something special, and the bathrooms are works of art in themselves with their metal walls.
The food is as delicious and artistic as the décor. Go for Chef David Quintana’s Tasting Menu with wine pairings by Sommelier Ryan Groeschel. With immaculate artistry, the Man in the Moon himself, managing partner Michael Tourville, has taken great care with each detail. Clearly passionate about what he does, Michael says, “It surprises many that an emerging culture of fine dining and wine can be found here in Orangeburg! What’s special about Four Moons is that we make fine dining affordable, not just on special occasions, but on a daily basis.”
The best way to get there? Lunar Shuttle, of course. This limo van is complete with cosmic LED stars and disco lights, surround-sound stereo, a full bar, wrap-around leather seating… And driver Brian will take you and about 12 of your friends to and from the restaurant so you can drink as much moon juice as you’d like.
If you’re going to have a celestial dining experience such as this, go ahead and treat yourself to staying at the Buck Ridge Plantation, also owned and operated by the Tourville family. Wake up to peacocks roaming the grounds and horse riding in the afternoon.
Make a reservation for dinner and/or limo service by calling 803.531.1984 or visit them online at www.fourmoons.com.
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